Wondering what Peruvian cuisine is all about? Stop by at Riko for a deep dive into the food of this rather remote Latin-American destination.
Riko is a Peruvian-Latin restaurant by Aasim and Adeeb Shah, the duo who brought us Oz by Kebapci, the popular Turkish fine-dine restaurant. And it makes a confident debut. Discreetly tucked away on the second floor of UB City, the 74-seater is a deeply intentional space that seeks to honour Latin America’s culinary and cultural legacy.
The interiors are a masterclass in storytelling. Inspired by Peru’s diverse topography, the space is all about elemental design. Raw materials used with liberal restraint range from hewn hand-laid stone and terracotta to micro-cement and sculptural plaster. Two distinct colour palettes – Amazonian forest green and warm fire-red tones – add depth and dimension, while crimson banquettes, mirrored ceilings, and flowing clay installations anchor the space with tactile drama. Subtle narrative touches — a mural of Peruvian foliage, vintage maps, and shelves of cultural artefacts — reveal themselves slowly, inviting diners to explore at leisure.
The à la carte menu is structured around seven thoughtfully designed categories that guide guests through a journey of textures, temperatures, and culinary traditions. While firmly rooted in Peruvian techniques, each dish is adapted with nuance for the Indian palate, often with fiery, bright, or umami-laced touches.
Starters set the tone with bold, playful intent. The Bomba de Choclo, a crisp corn custard shell filled with aged cheese, is at once grainy, rich, and satisfying. Sol de Maíz – a chilled corn salad with charred kernels, edamame, lime, and chilli – dances on the tongue with a sweet-spicy tang.
But ceviches are where Riko truly shines. And by swapping conventional fish-forward renditions with fruit-forward profiles, the kitchen adds bursts of fresh flavours to each dish: Ceviche de Mango y Maracuyá brings together shrimp, mango-passion fruit juice, and native chillies for a tropical burst; Ceviche de Sandía, made with watermelon, is equally pleasing and unexpected.
Inside into the rich interiors of Riko
Over at the grill and regional mains, flame reigns supreme. The Pollo a la Brasa – marinated Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken – is juicy and spiced with precision. Tamal de Cordero, a lamb-filled steamed corn dough parcel, leans rustic and soulful, while the Tostada de Atún is a nod to Nikkei cuisine (Peruvian-Japanese), with tuna on a crisp tortilla. Queso Bombas, golden empanadas of cheese and lamb, come with a green avocado mash that packs heat. Fideos Picantes Secos, a street-style noodle stir-fry tossed in chilli oil and herbs, is comfort food with depth.
Riko’s no-alcohol stance is deliberate, small but thoughtful. Highlights include a creamy Brazilian Lemonade (lime and condensed milk), a vibrant Granada y Kion (pomegranate soda with ginger), and the restorative Agua de Fresco (coconut water, cucumber, lemon). Each is designed to complement, not compete with, the food.
(L-R) Cachapa; Ceviche-de-Mango at Riko.
Desserts are indulgent without being overwrought. Like the Cachapa con Miel, a sweet corn pancake with honey. Perfect to round off the meal with.
What sets Riko apart is its intentionality. The kitchen imports ingredients like ají amarillo, choclo, and lúcuma to ensure that flavour fidelity is never compromised. Dishes resonate because they’re both grounded in place and shaped for the present moment.
At approximately ₹2,200 per person for a guided, multi-course experience (excluding taxes), Riko, which is open only for dinner, positions itself as a premium dining destination. But the value here isn’t just in the imported ingredients or dramatic interiors. It lies in the coherence of the vision – fire-led cooking, bold storytelling, and thoughtful restraint.
Words by Jackie Pinto.
