“Bombay”, plated and served

Esha Aphale | June 11, 2024 | Life

As I entered Ness, a new city-led concept-led bar, I was greeted by the cool atmosphere of the salty breeze of the Arabian Sea. Nestled within the iconic Trident Nariman Point, Ness captures Mumbai’s dynamic spirit. Designed with fluidity and adaptability in mind, it features open spaces that blend indoor and outdoor elements. The layout is inviting, and reflective of Mumbai’s social scene while offering a peaceful setting with lush foliage and a sea-facing deck. The mustard and green furnishings are choices of seascape replication for an onlooker.

The significance of the name “Ness” extends beyond its physical attributes. Derived from the Gaelic word for a point of land projecting into the sea, Ness embodies both literal and metaphorical aspects. Physically, the bar’s location at Trident Nariman Point aligns with this concept, extending into the Arabian Sea and offering breathtaking views that made me feel connected to the vast expanse of water. Metaphorically, Ness represents a point of convergence where the land meets the sea, mirroring the vibrant confluence of cultures and experiences that define Mumbai.

Paying homage to quintessential Bombay cuisine, the food at Ness was reminiscent of a cosmopolitan fusion of familiar food with global edits. The culinary experience at Ness mirrors Mumbai’s diverse and dynamic character. The menu features flavorful dishes and gourmet favourites that cater to all palates, offering something for everyone. I tried several dishes at Ness, like Akuri Keema Taco and Sabudana Butter Fruit Bhel, but the Avocado Bhaji, a modern take on the Batata Bhaji, was a standout dish for me due to its pairing with blue cheese as a dip, adding a unique twist to a familiar favourite.

The signature drinks at NESS — Marines Sour (inspired by Marine Line); The EOS; Yellow Pages

Ness’s cocktail program celebrates Mumbai’s sunny disposition and rich flavours. The concept behind the signature cocktails is to take guests on a sensory journey that encapsulates the dynamic spirit of South Mumbai while celebrating its global yet local culture. For me, a repeat cocktail was The Yellow Pages, the name inspired by the yellow pages of a phone book, blending vodka, turmeric honey syrup, lime, and chamomile tea, it showcases a literally “sunny” cocktail that combines fresh turmeric, locally sourced organic honey, and chamomile tea. The Saffron Sunset Sipper, blending rum, coconut liqueur, saffron-infused syrup, and pineapple juice, pays homage to Mumbai’s ubiquitous “Nariyal Pani Wala” with a refreshing bright yellow cocktail.

The Plantain cocktail, another personal favourite, featuring house-infused spiced rum, vanilla, banana, honey, and lemon, recognises India’s leadership in banana production. This refined elixir is accompanied by spicy Mumbai banana chips (wafers), adding a local touch to the drink. The Cirakum Milano, blending cumin-infused gin, Campari, Prosecco, and orange juice, tempers the elegant Prosecco with the earthy notes of cumin, reflecting Mumbai’s ability to temper even the most starry-eyed individuals.

From its fluid design and vibrant atmosphere to its diverse culinary offerings and personalised service, Ness embodies the spirit of Mumbai in every detail. Whether you are looking to unwind with a refreshing cocktail or indulge in gourmet cuisine, Ness offers an experience that is both reflective of and inspired by the city it calls home.

Words by Esha Aphale.
Image courtesy NESS.
Featured image NESS.

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