While the fashion industry boasts a multi-billion-dollar status, the notion that celebrities and models reign as the true luminaries in this glamorous realm is a fallacy. In reality, the true trailblazers are the sorcerers behind the scenes, the creative directors responsible for the enchanting spectacle on the runways. These maestros of style act as the masterminds of our sartorial fantasies, weaving the mesmerising charm that fashion houses wield.
Creative directors influence the identity and aesthetic of esteemed fashion houses like Louis Vuitton (LV), Gucci, and Chanel. A creative director, as a visionary leader, assumes the crucial responsibility of overseeing a brand’s design and creative direction, ensuring that collections align with the brand’s ethos and resonate with the target audience. The selection of creative directors often hinges on their proven track record in the fashion industry, innovative ideas, and ability to encapsulate a brand’s essence. Upon appointment, they inject their distinctive perspective and artistic flair to redefine and elevate the quintessential style of the fashion house.
Whether embodied by Pharrell Williams at LV, Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, or Virginie Viard at Chanel, these creative directors impart their personal touch to the brand, introducing elements while upholding its heritage and prestige. Through their creative leadership, they not only set trends but also established an enduring legacy for these iconic fashion houses.
Following the untimely passing of Virgil Abloh, Pharrell assumed the role of creative director at LV, marking a historic moment by becoming the second African American designer to helm the renowned French luxury house. In his third presentation for the iconic fashion house, Pharrell seamlessly integrates his unique style and information system from his background into the Louis Vuitton narrative, creating a bridge between Virginia and Paris, as he aptly calls it, LVers.
The show builds on his previous groundbreaking presentations, from the star-studded debut to the striking Hong Kong skyline backdrop accompanied by a drone show. The runway witnessed an infusion of American and hip-hop influences, with Pharrell boldly incorporating cowboy hats featuring the signature LVERS moniker and monogrammed Timbaland boots. The show invitation, accompanied by a harmonica, played into the cowboy aesthetic, adding a playful touch.
Delving into the roots of the American Western wardrobe, Pharrell’s collection transforms the origins of workwear into the savoir-faire of Louis Vuitton. Craftsmanship and embroidery techniques breathe life into key iconography of American Western dress, celebrating denim, blanket coats, Buffalo Check, and chaps. Pharrell pays homage to the intrinsic workwear of the American West by elevating denim tropes and workwear silhouettes with intricate beading and ornamentation. In this artistic evolution, Pharrell pays homage to Virgil Abloh’s vision while propelling Louis Vuitton into new frontiers with his distinct creative expression.
Pharrell Williams, Louis Vuitton’s Creative Director
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear by Pharrell Williams
As we shift our gaze, in a surprising move that has sent ripples through the fashion industry, Sabato De Sarno has been appointed as the new creative director of the renowned fashion house, Gucci, succeeding the iconic Alessandro Michele. De Sarno, a seasoned designer known for his innovative approach and distinctive style, joins the brand from the esteemed Valentino.
The announcement of De Sarno’s appointment has been met with both anticipation and curiosity. With a proven track record at Valentino, where he played a pivotal role in shaping the brand’s identity, many industry insiders believe that De Sarno is poised to bring a fresh perspective to the iconic fashion house. Alessandro Michele, who has been at the helm of the brand for several years, is widely celebrated for his eclectic and whimsical designs that have redefined the concept of luxury fashion. As he steps down, the fashion world eagerly awaits the unveiling of Sabato De Sarno’s vision for the future of the brand.
Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s Creative Director
Gucci Fall/Winter Menswear 2024 by Sabato De Sarno
De Sarno’s tenure at Valentino was marked by a fusion of modernity and tradition, and his ability to amalgamate classic elegance with contemporary aesthetics. It is this unique design sensibility that has sparked intrigue about how he will navigate the rich heritage of the brand he now helms.
Revealing his inaugural menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week on Friday afternoon, following his debut in womenswear this past September, de Sarno’s Gucci aesthetic marks a significant departure from the dreamy allure crafted by his predecessor, Alessandro Michele, which dominated much of the latter part of the 2010s.
While Michele gained acclaim for blurring gender stereotypes by showcasing menswear and womenswear together, de Sarno has reverted to presenting them separately, although with a shared sentiment. The phrases he employed to characterise this collection – “it’s a tale of music and nights out, of sweat, dancing, and singing. It’s a narrative of family, of kissing, lots and lots of kisses” – were also echoed in the womenswear show notes.
Gucci Fall/Winter 2024 by Sabato De Sarno
Instead of sequined jumpsuits and corsage-adorned corduroy, de Sarno presents a more overtly sensual menswear wardrobe in the recent Fall/Winter 2024 collection. It includes well-tailored suits featuring the Gucci monogram, casually unbuttoned satin shirts, and substantial knitwear paired with glossy peacoats, trenches, and satin bomber jackets. Rather than the lavish opulence of the past, touches of sparkle emerge in diamante-embellished trousers, vests, and chokers.
Fanfaring the crossing of this threshold, a new year brings a transformative period; a testament to the enduring spirit of evolution where the intersection of tradition and innovation paints a vibrant tableau for the future. As the show curtain rises on this new runaway, the spotlight is fixed on the unfolding narrative, where Gucci with de Sarno take bold steps into the uncharted realms of creativity, inviting the fashion world to witness and participate in the sage of reinvention and artistic resurgence.
Words by Esha Aphale.
Image curation by Tanya Chaturvedi.
Image courtesy Louis Vuitton, Gucci.
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