We catch up with the ebullient Chef Osama Jalali at his pop up at The Leela Bhartiya City where he showcased almost forgotten dishes and cooking techniques from ‘Undivided India’.
Raised in the by-lanes of old Delhi, his mother used to charm secret recipes from the Khansamas who lived in and around the area. His father was a Hakim and was often paid for his services, with home cooked food and even cooking lessons.
He usually travels with his mother Naazish and his wife Nazia who add their own touches of magic to his pop- ups.
Chef Jalali especially likes to throw people off balance by serving his signature Gosht ka Halwa and asking diners to guess the central ingredient.
This pop-up was a showcase of classic as well as obscure dishes like Afghani Mewa Kebab, Kathal Shammi, Afghani Murgh Qeema and Karachi Aloo, to name a few, executed and presented perfectly.
Then we grilled the self- taught MasterChef himself for some insider information.
“My signature dish has to be Mutton Halwa. It’s a dish that throws people for a loop! They’ve never encountered the unique melt-in-your-mouth texture and rich, unexpected flavours.”
Every chef has a dish they love to cook and one they personally don’t enjoy preparing. For Chef Jalali, it is no different. His heart truly belongs to Nihari. This dish is a labour of love, demanding patience and precision. “The slow braising process allows the flavours to develop into this incredibly rich and complex melody,” says Chef. Each step, from browning the meat to carefully selecting the spices, contributes to a deeply satisfying result. The anticipation that builds during the hours of slow cooking is rewarded with a dish that is both comforting and profoundly flavorful.
On the other hand, Chef’s least favourite dish to prepare is Biryani. The meticulous layering and long assembly process can be quite time-consuming and requires a lot of precision. While Biryani is undeniably delicious, he finds the magic of cooking lies in more intuitive and spontaneous creations. The structured process of Biryani, from marinating the meat to layering it perfectly with rice, is a bit too rigid for his taste. He prefers the freedom to experiment and adapt as he goes along.
His cooking philosophy is anchored in the principle that ‘less is more.’ He believes in letting carefully chosen ingredients shine, allowing their inherent flavours to blossom through patient and thoughtful cooking techniques. For him, simplicity is key, as it highlights the natural essence of each component. This approach respects the ingredients and honours the culinary traditions that have shaped his style.
In his kitchen, there are three indispensable tools that he cannot do without. Firstly, the mighty knife, it is often said that a chef is only as good as their knife, and Chef Jalali wholeheartedly agrees. A good knife becomes an extension of one’s hand, enabling precise cuts, delicate slices, and the confidence to tackle any ingredient. Secondly, the song of the hamam dasta,is more than just a mortar and pestle, it’s a symphony conductor in the spice world. Grinding spices in the hamam dasta unlock their soul, releasing aromas that pre-ground powders can only dream of. Lastly, the warm embrace of the copper lagan, a vessel steeped in tradition, cooking with copper imparts a depth and richness that modern materials simply cannot replicate.
Chef has always been fascinated by the culinary traditions of Uzbekistan. The cuisine of this Central Asian country is a beautiful tapestry woven from the culinary traditions of the Middle East, Central Asia, and even Russia. Cities like Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva, once bustling centres of trade, have left their mark on the vibrant and diverse Uzbek cuisine. Jalali is particularly intrigued by the use of fresh herbs, flavourful spices, and traditional techniques such as stewing in cauldrons over open fires, which create deeply rich and aromatic dishes.
When it comes to comfort food, his choice is clear: Rajma Chawal any day, any time. Despite the occasional fear of the unknown, he remains fearless in the kitchen. His secret weapon? A sprinkle of homemade khushboo masala is added to every meal, infusing each dish with an extra layer of flavour. His favourite cookbook is “Prashad,” a celebration of the best in Indian cooking by Indian masters, offering endless inspiration and joy.
Chef’s culinary passion is deeply rooted in his desire to connect with his loved ones through food. When asked about his dream dining companion, he immediately thinks of his mother. For her, he would lovingly prepare Mooli ki Bhaji and Lassan ki Chutney, her all-time favourite dishes. These humble yet flavourful creations not only showcase his culinary skills but also evoke cherished memories of home. Reflecting on his craft, Chef Jalali considers long-grain aged Basmati rice to be one of the most challenging ingredients to work with. While he adores its delicate aroma and fluffy texture, he acknowledges the rice’s tendency to turn mushy if not cooked with precision. Despite its demanding nature, Jalali believes that perfectly cooked Basmati rice can elevate any dish to a whole new level, making the effort worthwhile. His culinary journey was sparked by his fascination with the forgotten gems of regional cuisine, “As a historian, I was captivated by the rich culinary tapestry of Undivided India, a treasure trove of flavours waiting to be rediscovered.” This inspired him to showcase these hidden treasures to the world, preserving the unique flavours and traditions of a bygone era.
In his home kitchen or when entertaining friends, Chef Jalali finds joy in the simplicity of crafting the perfect burger. This classic dish allows him to unwind his creativity with various toppings, and experiment with different flavour combinations. Each burger is customised to specific taste preferences of his guests. His favourite ingredients, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt, play a crucial role in his culinary creations. He appreciates how these elements enhance the flavours of a dish. Cinnamon adds warmth and depth, cardamom contributes a symphony of floral, citrus, and smoky notes. “And salt, of course,” says Chef, “is the foundation of everything. It’s the conductor, orchestrating all the other ingredients and bringing out their full potential.”
Relishing into the culinary world of Chef Jalali, discovering his favourite dishes and ingredients, as well as the heartfelt stories and memories that fuel his passion for cooking proved insightful to us. His dedication to preserving and sharing the flavours of regional cuisine reflects a deep appreciation for culinary heritage. Through his creations, Chef Jalali tantalises the taste buds and weaves narratives that celebrate the richness of our culinary traditions.
Words by Jackie Pinto.
Featured image “Chulha” by artist Chitra Vaidya.
