India’s embroidery traditions have been passed down through generations, each region boasting a unique style that reflects its cultural heritage. From delicate stitches to bold motifs, these techniques tell stories of community, daily life, and personal expression.
In modern times, contemporary artisans have taken these ancient crafts and reinterpreted them, merging traditional motifs with modern aesthetics. Svasa Life details four distinctive voices, each contributing to an evolving dialogue between tradition and modernity. What distinguishes their practice is not simply their command of ancient techniques, but their profound understanding of embroidery’s cultural grammar—its capacity to communicate complex narratives through the interplay of thread and space.
Vastrakala Embroidery – Celebrating Regional Diversity Vastrakala Embroidery
Vastrakala is dedicated to preserving the rich diversity of Indian embroidery by focusing on the intricate work of artisans from across the country. Specialising in Chikankari from Lucknow, Zardozi, and Phulkari, Vastrakala showcases how these traditional techniques can be incorporated into modern fashion and home decor. Each piece celebrates the painstaking craftsmanship that is central to Indian heritage, creating intricate designs that resonate with contemporary aesthetics.
Their collection highlights the diversity of Indian embroidery traditions while also adapting them to modern designs, showing how regional embroidery can be appreciated by a global audience. Through their meticulous craftsmanship, they breathe new life into the time-honoured traditions of India’s various regions.
Vastrakala x Lesage: Hand-Embroidered Whimsy for Louis Vuitton Women’s Pre-Fall 2024 Show.
Jayeeta Chatterjee – Reviving Nakshi Kantha Jayeeta Chatterjee Art
Jayeeta Chatterjee’s work is a tribute to Nakshi Kantha, a form of Bengali embroidery deeply rooted in personal storytelling and communal identity. Originating in rural Bengal and Bangladesh, Nakshi Kantha features running stitches used to create quilts, often made from recycled sari fabric. Traditionally, these quilts depicted scenes from daily life or folklore, stitched with care and passed down through generations.
Jayeeta’s creations draw inspiration from this legacy while bringing it into the modern world with bold colours and contemporary themes. Her Instagram showcases vibrant reinterpretations of this craft, where everyday scenes, animals, and motifs are rendered with a distinct personal touch. Each piece reflects her love of storytelling, cultural preservation, and the deep connection between embroidery and memory.
(L-R) Dreaming With Open Eyes, 2023: Woodcut print and Nakshi Kantha stitch on saris (two layers); Became Known (1), 2024: Woodcut print on recycled sari with Nakshi Kantha embroidery.
Milaaya Embroideries – Fusion of Tradition and Fashion Milaaya Embroideries
Milaaya Embroideries seamlessly blends Indian craftsmanship with international fashion, bringing age-old embroidery techniques into the world of haute couture. By working closely with artisans specialising in everything from Mirror Work to Bead Embroidery, Milaaya’s pieces are a testament to the beauty of Indian embroidery when adapted for high fashion.
The brand’s collaborations with designers and fashion houses from across the globe demonstrate how traditional techniques can be reimagined for modern markets, making embroidery a bridge between cultures. Milaaya’s focus on luxury has brought Indian embroidery to the forefront of international fashion, ensuring that these age-old techniques continue to evolve.
Milaaya Embroidery’s NYFW Fall’22 Runway Designs
Cavallo – Detailed Stories in Every Stitch Cavallo
Cavallo is known for its refined embroidery that often uses horse motifs, bringing equestrian elegance to Indian craftsmanship. What sets their methodology apart is this: each piece is meticulously designed, combining traditional and contemporary influences, with detailed embroidery adding texture and depth to their collections. The designs exemplify how embroidery can create wearable art that blends aesthetic pleasure with a cultural narrative.
The brand draws inspiration from India’s royal history, particularly the significance of horses in princely regalia, to create pieces that reflect sophistication and grace. Cavallo’s attention to detail and craftsmanship make it a standout in the world of modern embroidery.
Hands of Memory, weaving Paisley Dreams
Indian embroidery has long been more than just decoration—it is a means of storytelling, a marker of cultural identity, and a cherished tradition passed down through generations. Today, these four artists are helping to keep this art alive while pushing its boundaries, ensuring that embroidery remains relevant and revered across the globe. Through their work, the threads of India’s rich history continue to weave their way into the future.
Words by Esha Aphale.
Featured Artwork: Karigars embroidering shoe panels during the Mughal era, from The Jur Doze Or Embroider, Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, Mumbai.
