To know Bombay is to know the Parsis. A seemingly tiny community that made its way to the city some 150 years ago, at present, reads synonymously with its very essence. The tokens of their presence mark the intricate lanes of the city’s South: the institutions, the imposing fire temples, and the simplest, yet the most touching, classic Iranian food. Parsi bakeries — and their rich keema, chutneys and generously buttered breads – remain inseparable from the social and cultural fabric of the metropolis. The sweet and savoury blends of Irani cuisine, topped with some dry fruits and nuts, dominate the local lore.
An indispensable part of this story is Yazdani Bakery — an eatery established in 1953 in the city’s historic fort. One cannot simply walk by its blue and red facade and not indulge in some chai and brun pavs (a coarser Irani bread). In quintessential Parsi fashion, the bakery serves up delicious bakes at a bargain, takes only cash, and doesn’t shy away from adding banter to someone’s usual order. These chapters continue with Zyraa Zend, the fourth-generation custodian of Yazdani. For her, Yazdani doesn’t belong to the Zend family; it’s a place bolstered by its community. “I grew up watching people from every walk of life sharing butt space on rickety wooden tables, all united by their need for bread,” she recalls. Zyraa’s true inheritance was the moral blueprint the bakery offered, one rooted in generosity and human connection, aspects modern hospitality strives to replicate.
Instituted in 1953, the historic Yazdani Bakery continues to serve authentic Irani bread
As a baker herself, it all leads back to the family-run business in Horniman Circle. “I hold a deeply emotional connection to my family bakery; I see it as a beautiful Persian carpet woven with golden threads of stories, and it only gets more beautiful, rich and intricate as time passes,” she says. She threads these memories together — preparing rum cakes with the cousins; running to grab fresh buns as soon as they arrived from the bakery; and the family’s penchant for pranks and silly quarrels. Her childhood was defined by the afternoons she’d spent beside her grandfather, Zend M. Zend, as he offered his larger-than-life persona and worthwhile apple pies at the counter. “Zend was a major proponent of great conversations. You were given a five-minute window to intrigue him. I’d hear life stories, the wrath of heartbreak, spiritual awakenings, travel tales and sometimes, to our surprise, a self-written poem or song!”
(L-R) Zyraa’s grandfather, Zend M Zend helmed the bakery for decades before his passing five years ago; Zend, his staff, and his famed khari featured in The Afternoon Despatch & Courier in 1990
The love for bread was natural conditioning. The finesse, however, came later — after formal training in hospitality and a few stints at hotel kitchens and bakeries. Her eureka moment came when she joined the baking team at the now-closed restaurant, Marāi, in Goa, leaving Mumbai for two years. Baking rewards effort, precision, and discipline. Before it became almost meditative, painful mistakes were common. She’d often call her father, Zyros in tears. “He would laugh — lovingly, but still laugh — telling me these were the years that would shape me properly,” she shares. As she developed her ethos as a contemporary hospitality worker, her familial legacy defined her approach to food, regardless of the setting. Both Zyros and Zend insisted on authenticity — if it’s real, it’s worth it, no matter the techniques, ingredients and innovation that shape the culinary zeitgeist. “What really sways people and wins their trust is your ability to communicate your story, and essence through feeling. People need to trust you,” asserts Zyraa.
Trust, along with generosity and sincerity, bolstered Yazdani’s functioning as a humble operation — exuding the very essence of luxury in hospitality presently. Diners crave tradition revival and community rituals, aspects of cooking that are at the heart of smaller businesses. Modern life is extremely disconnected; it is no wonder people search for spaces that pull them together. “In some ways, I think we’re all trying to re-root ourselves back to who we are,” ponders Zyraa.
Yazdani never fades from local memory, as the community holds on to the family business
Unfortunately, traditional spaces cease to function with the vigour they once had. Yazdani, particularly, lost many of its skilled staff to the pandemic when they left for home and never returned. The bakery’s presence dwindled in the past few years, and patrons wondered if the family operation was ready to bid farewell to the community — the anxiety was heightened by the passing of her grandfather in 2021 and the shutting of the dining services. Zyraa and her father have confirmed the family is not abandoning their establishment anytime soon, a promise returned by its passionate customers. The family continues to duly knead, bake and serve the finest and most authentic foods they can. And for what it’s worth, Zend’s charm lives on with Zyraa, who embodies his humour just as much as his culinary prowess.
Words by Tanya Syed.
