In Search of the Big ‘O’

Jackie Pinto | January 6, 2025 | Life

Long before bougie restaurants around the world appropriated the term Omakase, Bangalore nailed it in the late 1900s. A Japanese dining concept meaning, “I’ll leave it up to you”, Omakase as a trend is fast becoming a thing, across different cuisines and dining spaces —from five star properties to standalone restaurants alike. And with good reason.

The Farmhouse opened in a quiet corner of Bangalore’s Bannerghatta area in 1987, long before IT Companies arrived bringing traffic chaos in their wake. A chef- driven space conceptualised by Saeed and Ashrafa Sattar, it was way ahead of its time. Sattar offered a seven course menu of the day which he called ‘Surrender to The Chef’, and Bangaloreans at first didn’t know quite what to make of it.

Eating at a restaurant without a menu? Unheard of!
Then word got around that the food at The Farmhouse was sophisticated and exciting. And quite pricey. INR 350 for a multi-course meal that appeared before you, in stages, with flair and panache. Nothing our sleepy pensioners paradise had ever experienced. We were familiar with our version of European fare- pot roasts smothered in gravy, cheesy bakes and saucy Indo -Chinese dishes.

But Sattar served up stuff like fish delicately poached in lemon-butter and dill, Florentine Lasagne made from scratch with hand rolled pasta, dainty cheese and onion tartlets and bone tender veal roast. His was a showcase of fresh ingredients and novel cooking techniques learned in Milan during his Air India posting. Soon word got around about a dining experience that took the guesswork off the menu, encouraged you to sit back, relax and allow the chef to take the wheel.

The wondrous setting of Cajsa at ITC Gardenia

Open only on weekends, The Farmhouse was booked solid for months. Sattar passed in 1996, but The Farmhouse carried on. His daughter Sonali reinvented the space, added a high fashion boutique, renamed it Grasshopper and till date keeps her dads legacy alive- the high culinary standards he set and the charming laid back ambience, redolent of gracious country living.

Cajsa, the new fine dining restaurant at ITC Gardenia has no ala carte menu- just a seven, nine or 11 course option that factors in your food preference and allergies but leaves everything else to the chef. After months of research, Chefs Shubham Singh and Anuj Sood poured their collective creativity into menus that change frequently, full of surprises like lobster with kasundi notes, hickory-smoked morsels of chicken, asparagus and corn soup with Peruvian asparagus and Byadgi chilli oil, a ginger-cantaloupe sorbet, lamb rib drizzled with a bone reduction alongside a goat cheese-apricot filo pastry. A feast for the eyes and palate.

Nasi and Mee — a leading and award-winning South East Asian eatery with restaurants across Bangalore

On the outskirts of Bangalore is Farmlore — helmed by Chefs Johnson Ebenezer and Mythrayie Iyer. Their 18-cover restaurant nestled in the heart of a 37 acre farm was initially inspired by the likes of Heston Blumenthal, and has made quite the impression on the city’s epicureans. Food cooked on wood fired ovens, seasonal changing menus, ethically sourced meat and seafood, foraged greens and newly harvested vegetables — fancy cooking techniques elevating common local dishes to culinary alchemy. Picky diners with jaded palates head here expecting to be wowed, every single time.

For a more affordable Omakase option, Nasi and Mee, a pan Asian Restaurant offers a well-priced menu curated by Chef Ujjain Singh Tanwar. Depending on the catch of the day, he can take you from beetroot cured Salmon carpaccio and spicy tuna nori to hearty ramen bowls. Sitting at the counter, watching his dexterous knife skills, the entire experience is intimate and entertaining as the various tapas style dishes appear before you like magic art- using the palette of fresh green wasabi, root vegetables, mushrooms and the pink translucent features of each fish variety to maximum effect.

At The Four Seasons Asian Restaurant, Far and East, Chef Atushi Yonaha will take your taste buds on a visit to his hometown of Okinawa to sample dishes from his childhood. Like chopped pork belly slowly simmered with soy sauce or miso, Taco rice or stir fried bitter melon with bacon. Or he may just serve up an interesting hotate (Scallop) kolambu (curry from Tamil Nadu) depending on the catch of the day and the kind of mood he’s in.

Fireside Flame, Craft Dining Kitchen, a venture by three young chefs Rajat, Vineet, and Pramodh, offers a 10-course tasting menu, paired with kombuchas and fermented sauces. An open kitchen with soaring flames and lots of flair and drama bring theatre to the dining experience. They also work with local and seasonal ingredients — to create dishes like the Yakitori style chicken thighs, with pickled bimbli on the side, a quail cafreal and even a paella bursting with seafood and made with fragrant Govindbhog rice.

Whether you’re a food enthusiast, an adventurous eater, or someone looking to explore new culinary horizons, omakase invites you into a world of culinary craftsmanship. It celebrates the artistry and passion of the chef, freeing them up to use the best seasonal ingredients available on that specific day.

Making us more well-rounded eaters, in the bargain.

Words by Jackie Pinto.

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