Marking 15 years in the world of Indian fashion, Sanjay Garg is not just a designer but an artful storyteller, weaving narratives through textiles that celebrate heritage and embrace modernity. Opening his newest store in Kolkata and making his mark in South India, the founder of Raw Mango, tells us a bit about how he revolutionised the perception of handloom, and created a distinctive label that brings tradition and innovation together seamlessly.
To the fashion-forward diaspora, Raw Mango is more than another label — it is a movement that challenges conventional ideas of beauty and craftsmanship. Garg describes the name as a reflection of imperfection and rawness, embodying his creative journey and vision. His designs are strongly rooted in Indian textiles, with special emphasis on the Chanderi, Banarasi, and Mashru weaves. But Garg imbues them with a contemporary sensibility that appeals to a global audience.
From the campaign Other|2021
“I wanted to make the sari the hero because I felt it was the need of the time,” he explains. His approach is almost deeply nationalist — not in a political sense, but in his commitment to reviving and valuing Indian craftsmanship. He questions why the fine art of handloom is often considered expensive when international luxury brands command high prices without debate.
Garg’s aesthetic is distinct — minimalist yet rich in cultural depth. He believes that Indian design does not need to be kitschy to be authentic. His creations are luxurious without excessive embellishments, allowing the fabric and craftsmanship to take centre stage. This philosophy extends to Raw Mango’s retail spaces, which prioritise experience over mere transactions.
His Hyderabad store, housed in a 1980s modernist home, reflects this ideology, in a space designed to pique one’s curiosity and imagination, rather than just being a luxury boutique.
Starting Raw Mango was not easy, he recalls. Beginning with just four weavers in Chanderi, none of whom were master artisans. He chose to work independently rather than rely on NGOs, striving for self-sufficiency. His journey was filled with risks, but his commitment to craftsmanship and innovation paid off. Today, Raw Mango is a celebrated brand, influencing the way Indian textiles are perceived and worn.
Chanderi saree being woven.
For Garg, fashion is not just about clothing — it is about identity, history, and cultural preservation. His work continues to push boundaries, ensuring that Indian textiles remain relevant in a rapidly changing world. As he puts it, “I love the beauty of imperfection. And I wanted a bit of a surprise… Indian, but very different and edgy”.
At the heart of Raw Mango’s philosophy is a commitment to sustainability and ethical production. The brand collaborates with artisans across Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, West Bengal, and Varanasi, ensuring fair wages and continuous employment. By prioritising handwoven textiles and natural fibres, Raw Mango not only preserves traditional weaving techniques but also supports local economies. Raw Mango continues to push boundaries, experimenting with new weaving techniques and textile innovations. From introducing lycra on handloom to reviving Mashru Ikat and exploring the versatility of Kancheepuram, he ensures that the brand continues to evolve while staying true to its core philosophy.
Garg believes that sustainability in fashion goes beyond material choices — it is about creating designs that have longevity and cultural relevance. His approach challenges the fast-fashion mindset, advocating for pieces that are timeless rather than trend-driven.
Words by Jackie Pinto.
