Speakeasies and bar takeovers are becoming increasingly popular, perhaps because these places offer a distinct and immersive experience by creating mystique, inviting international mixologists, and giving customers an experience beyond the cocktail.
How can you titillate and captivate a burgeoning population of alcoholic beverage thrill seekers? One way would be to bring back the forbidden. Or perhaps pretending to do something illegal without risking jail time? Back in the 1920s and early 1930s, when alcohol was banned in the United States, thirsty patrons had to literally tunnel underground to seek out spirits without being too fussy about their choices. This is when speakeasies, hidden establishments that operated covertly during the Prohibition era, became the go-to spots for those seeking a thrilling and forbidden drinking experience. These secret venues not only provided a sense of adventure but also fostered a tight-knit community of like-minded individuals who were united by their desire to enjoy alcoholic beverages.
Like ZLB 23 at The Leela, which, as the name implies, is meant to offer you unique indulgences away from the prying eyes of the law. While there is nothing illegal happening here, the air of mystique is carefully cultivated through mood lighting, opulent furnishings, and intimate seating accessed through a kitchen passageway. The menu is carefully curated, with a variety of cocktails to choose from.
But how do speakeasies generate buzz while maintaining secrecy? I enquired, The Leela’s general manager, Madhav Sehgal. To which responded, “By bringing down top-notch bartenders from another part of the world to share their cocktail philosophy and virtually take over the bar for a couple of nights,” Giacomo Giannotti and Margarita Sader, the duo from Barcelona’s award-winning bar/speakeasy Paradiso, were brought down by the team at Leela for a recent takeover. Paradiso made it to the top of the list of The World’s Best Bars 2022, a huge honour considering that Giannotti actually left his family ice-cream parlour, named Paradiso in the Italian seaside resort of Marina di Carrara, to pursue his passion for mixology. After extensive training in five-star hotel bars, he eventually opened his speakeasy in 2015, cleverly hidden behind the door of a refrigerator in a pastrami shop in Barcelona’s Old City.
Madhav Sehgal, Priyanka Blah, Giacomo Giannotti, and Margarita Sader.
Holding on to the top spot is never easy with the fierce competition in the bartending world, so how does Paradiso continue to meet the high expectations of its clientele?
“Our menu is created and designed in our Paradiso Lab. We have a team specialising in chemistry, molecular cuisine, and mixology, so our drinks are a complete sensory experience,” explains Gianotti. Paradiso is known for their highly innovative cocktails, which, as Margarita explains, take hours of experimentation to perfect. “Our most beautiful menu to date has been inspired by human evolution, and each drink is dedicated to a turning point in history—from discovering fire to the compass, the light bulb to penicillin. For example, ‘Fleming’ is inspired by the doctor who discovered penicillin, and we use tequila infused overnight with black miso as the base. Or the ‘Tesla’, which is presented with lots of drama, using a real Tesla coil and two types of gases that actually change colours while you hold the glass.”
At ZLB 23, the duo presented two of their signature Paradiso cocktails: Kryptonite, made with gin, riboflavin, shiso leaves, lemongrass, and Sichuan pepper. And for some added complexity, further infused with grapefruit cordial, chocolate bitters, and kaffir lime essential oil. The second is an Evolution Negroni, using Maker’s Mark Bourbon, mango, vanilla, Campari, Mancino Rosso, Chai Tea, and Disaronno.
Evolution Negroni.
But however creative you get with your cocktails, the most important thing is to remember that lack of balance and low-quality ingredients can make really bad cocktails—even the simplest margarita, which is just Cointreau, tequila, and lime juice, can go wrong if the lime juice is not absolutely fresh!” cautions Giannotti.
So as cocktail connoisseurs around the country look for innovation and crafted experiences beyond the usual, maybe bar takeovers and prohibition nightlife are here to stay!
Words by Jackie Pinto.
Images by ZLB23.
