We discover Coco Shambhala, a well-kept secret nestling in the heart of Sindhudurg and built to offer the discerning traveller a bespoke leisure experience.
Coco Shambhala is best described by the Japanese concept of Shibumi, meaning quiet luxury, suggestive of understated elegance, minimalistic beauty and functionality over ostentation.
Tucked away in the hills of lesser-known Sindhudurg, it is an exclusive four-villa retreat, a passion project of Giles Knapton, an Englishman whose relationship with India spans several decades, dating back to when he was a seventeen year old backpacker. Now in his forties, he thinks of India as home. After building a resort in Goa, he was drawn to the lush beauty of the Sindhudurg coast. Ten years of relentless exploration, led him to discover the perfect spot in the hills just 200 metres from Bhogave beach.
And so, Coco Shambhala as it is today, became a reality.
Just 15 minutes away from the new Sindhudurg airport or a two hour drive from Goa, the resort is the perfect getaway. A discreet entrance — you might almost miss if you drive past too quickly — is accessed by red laterite steps that seem to spring naturally from the earth, leading you through lush foliage lined pathways, charming antique doorways and secret courtyards through to your villa. Light and airy, an open pavilion flanked by two spacious bedrooms offers you both, privacy and space. And most importantly, a magnificent view that simply takes your breath away. A 180-degree panorama of the sea, an infinity pool and an endless tropical landscape stretching as far as the eye can see. Not a single person, building or vehicle to mar the perfection, just a couple of fishing boats bobbing on the horizon. The interiors are done in earthy tones, clean lines, luxurious soft furnishings that are all designed to be high on comfort, low on flash.
(L-R) Clean, minimal and calming interiors at the luxurious retreat; the unbeatable view from Coco Shambhala at the poolside dinner
The efficient hospitality team is headed by Suhas Malewadkar, who explains how the property was conceptualised and constructed.
“We used very low impact building techniques, manual labour and local materials mostly. No cranes or bulldozers that would disturb the natural landscape. The villas are raised on steel columns, technically they are temporary structures that can be easily dismantled and removed without leaving a trace on the environment. Once the construction was completed, most of the crew were trained and absorbed into the hospitality team at the resort and have been here since the beginning, becoming almost like extended family.”
Meals are served in the comfort of your villa, on terracotta and copper tableware, in keeping with the design aesthetic. Malewadkar meticulously plans your menu for the duration of your stay giving you a choice of global or local Malvani fare.
We opted for Malvani cuisine — and it exceeded our expectations. Herbs and vegetables, largely grown on the property or sourced from nearby farms, along with fresh meats and seafood, expertly cooked and beautifully presented. Every meal was a feast for the eyes and palate, starting with breakfast — freshly brewed coffee, juice, seasonal fruit, eggs to order and a choice of local specials. Lunch and dinner, was thoughtfully planned and customised to our taste and preferences.
(L-R) Crispy leaves and herbs of Sindhudurg; a vegetarian Malvani thali; curry leaf-poached praws
And apart from the attentive wait-staff, we saw no one, even though the resort was fully booked. Nothing disturbed the sounds of the sea, the birds, and the rustling trees.
Despite its laid back atmosphere, there is plenty to do in Sindhudurg for those looking for more active holidays. Post the monsoons, they offer water sports like parasailing, jet skiing, and surfing at the nearby Tarkali beach, as well as hiking, night safaris, scuba diving, dolphin spotting, and barbecues on the beach. For those who prefer the indoors, there are art and craft workshops, puppet shows and cooking classes.
We highly recommend the backwater boat ride that was thoughtfully arranged for us while our villa was getting ready, the day we arrived.
As you drift down the peaceful Walaval Backwaters, in a small wooden boat expertly manoeuvred by the cheerful ferryman, stopping for a drink of tender coconut water at some point, you get to see nature at its best. On the way back, it’s worth making a stop at the 800-year-old Laxmi Narayan Temple in Walaval village with its lovely Hemandpanthi-style (star-shaped) compound set next to a peaceful 14th Century reservoir.
Everything in Sindhudurg is unhurried and unspoilt. Even the tiny local market on the river jetty with an eclectic collection of shops and stalls selling everything from home essentials to fresh vegetables, fruit and fish.
We tried, but we could not bring ourselves to leave our villa with its inviting pool and stunning views. Just watching the rain–ripe monsoon clouds in the distance bursting into the occasional shower. Absorbing the sounds of silence that gently cloaked the resort was pure bliss.
Coco Shambhala, as it lays in the lap of nature in Sindhudurg
However, we did get in a wonderful, relaxing massage at the in-house spa where they have a whole bouquet of treatments to choose from. And we did meander down to Bhogave beach to catch the sun dipping into the Arabian sea from one of the benches on the promenade before heading back to the villa for another swim followed by cocktails and more delicious Malvani food — bhakri, greens, vegetables, salads, fish, prawns, chicken and mutton, served piping hot at our dining table.
Finally, we curled up with a book and drifted off to sleep with a lavish view of the Arabian Sea.
Coco Shambhala is all about sustainable practices, timeless elegance and experiential luxury. The charm of enjoying complete privacy, great food and attentive service in the lap of nature. It’s not surprising that it has been listed as one of the 25 best beach villas worldwide, and one of India’s best boutique properties by several travel magazines and journals.
Words by Jackie Pinto.
